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Sunday, June 16, 2013

If you are an experienced CP grower and read only one post on my blog…

flava_cuprea_Kibelis_lid_web

Sarracenia flava var. cuprea “Helmut’s Rosy Red”. I lost this plant from my collection and it took a few years before I got another division. What happened? read on…

Make sure it is this one:

http://thepitcherplantationaustralia.blogspot.com.au/2012/11/the-pros-and-cons-of-fertilising.html

It took a while to figure it out – I had been loosing Sarracenia from my collection each year, and thought it was some sort of fungus. Each time it was the same – wilting pitchers, and death a few days later. But when I had some colleagues who are plant pathologists examine the plants, they could not find any obvious signs of fungal (or bacterial) infection.

Eventually, I brought them a plant just beginning to show signs of distress, and when we examined it, we found fertiliser deposits on the roots and rhizome. The diagnosis – fertiliser burn. And what made it worse was that the plant in question had not been fertilised – the deposits had originated from other pots and precipitated out of the water.

Do not abuse fertilisers – they will hurt and kill your plants. Be warned and be informed!

flava_cuprea_Victorianclone_pitchers_web

Sarracenia flava var. cuprea “Victorian Clone”. Another victim of fertiliser abuse, not replaced at time of writing (and much missed).

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

About Using Sphagnum Moss for Carnivorous Plants

Sphagnum_snowWild Sphagnum cf. cristatum  growing wild in the Brindabella Ranges above Canberra. Most Sphagnum species are cool-growing species from temperate climates (note the snow!), although I have seen a species (probably Sphagnum perichaetiale) growing in Wallum heathland in southern Queensland.

Why use Sphagnum moss?

Sphagnum moss makes a great CP growing medium, but it is not the only option for great plants. The main benefit it offers is providing an acid and very pH stable soil for CPs, which typically grow in very acid (and therefore nutrient poor) conditions. The reason for the stable pH is that live Sphagnum continually pumps acids (hydrogen ions) into the environment. These acids react with soil nutrients and prevent large plants (tree species) from outcompeting the Sphagnum and overgrowing its environment (light being the limiting factor). Because of its acid production, Sphagnum is an ideal media for CPs.

Read this before you think about using Sphagnum for your CPs...

Because live Sphagnum is no longer readily available in Australia from legal sources, it should only be used with great care and restraint. Only use it if you intend to keep it alive and are prepared to provide ideal conditions as suggested here and by other resources. You should never use it as "just a growing media". Unless you are growing plants that absolutely need Sphagnum (like Darlingtonia and some epiphytic Nepenthes, and even these can be grown in other media, albeit not as well), use a Sphagnum peat or other appropriate mix to form the bulk of the media and only ever use Sphagnum as a living organism to cover the surface of the pot in order to create a stable growing environment and for aesthetics. You should also aim to cultivate Sphagnum for its own sake and self sufficiency, as well as conserve Sphagnum during repotting.

About Sphagnum in Australia

Brindabella habitat_webMore wild Sphagnum growing in the Brindabella Ranges. Note the Utricularia dichotoma flower at top right of this image.

The genus Sphagnum contains 250 named species with just 6 growing in Australia. Most of them occur in temperate regions, although one species growing here is a subtropical or tropical specialist that occurs in Queensland and the Northern Territory as well as in tropical Asia. All Sphagnum are niche specialists and most create their own ecosystems (ie. Sphagnum heathlands). These environments form a tiny fraction of Australia's biological diversity and are very sensitive to environmental change (including climate change for alpine and sub-alpine specialists). Sphagnum is protected in all states and territories of Australia, meaning you cannot just go an dig some up. As licenses in Tasmania (the only state that permitted harvesting) have reportedly been cancelled, the only mosses now available are those already in cultivation by CP and orchid growers.

The six named species are:

· Sphagnum cristatum (subalpine NSW, ACT, TAS & New Zealand); robust, tussock forming species, green or occasionally light tan to light purple. Almost certainly the dominant species in cultivation.

· Sphagnum perichaetiale ( N.T., QLD and N.S.W. Also in New Zealand (North Island), India, SE Asia, Malesia (as opposed to Malaysia!), Melanesia, Fiji, South America, the Caribbean, eastern U.S.A., southern Africa, Madagascar and Mauritius); tropical/subtropical species, associated with flowing water over rock or acidic substrates in shaded areas. Probably not cultivated.

· Sphagnum australe (lowland to subalpine N.S.W., A.C.T., VIC. and TAS., also in South America, southern Africa and New Zealand); prefers relatively well drained sites. Leaves pendant, whitish green. Possibly in cultivation.

· Sphagnum falcatulum (NSW, VIC & TAS; ?QLD), very fine foliage, in wet to submerged conditions. Sea level to subalpine altitudinal range. Probably not cultivated.

· Sphagnum fuscovinosum (Tasmanian endemic); red foliage, grows submerged, subalpine and true alpine conditions.

· Sphagnum novozelandicum (WA, NSW, ACT, VIC & TAS; also NZ); yellow-brown to brown-purple, sea level to subalpine, cushion forming species. In wet conditions in shrubland, grassland and even roadside ditches. Possibly cultivated.

The most commonly encountered species as far as Australian CP growing is concerned is probably Sphagnum cristatum, which is one of the most widespread Australian species. This moss is a green type, with plants growing in strong sun occasionally becoming purplish at the growing point. Sphagnum novozelandicum is probably also in cultivation (possibly mixed with S. cristatum), and I suspect some NSW growers have Sphagnum australe as well.

Only one Australian species (Sphagnum fusconivosum) is strongly reddish in colour. Follow this link to see a photo of this species on Flickr. As you will see, it is almost entirely aquatic and a rather bushy plant that lacks a strong stem. It appears to rely on water's buoyancy to hold it erect, much like water plants like Elodea or milfoil. Given this unique habit, it is probably not suitable for CP cultivation. We do not have the terrestrial red Sphagnum that the United States has (or if we do, it is as yet unnamed and unknown to Australian moss taxonomists). Do not even think about importing live Sphagnum, as it will be illegal under our Quarantine laws. In addition, it is a major pathogen risk, and not just from a plant pathology perspective. Sphagnum can cause human health issues (see Barry Rice's page on sporotrichosis).

The major taxonomic work on Sphagnum in Australia is by Rodney Seppelt. You can access this work by clicking on this link (ANBG site).

Plants cultivated in Australia by CP growers

As noted above, most Sphagnum in cultivation appears to be either Sphagnum cristatum or S. novozealandicum, but some NSW CP growers have a much finer, more slender looking species with hanging foliage that may be S. australe. No-one seems to have bothered keying out their mosses (see the Seppelt work above for a taxonomic key - you will need a microscope)!

This Sphagnum was (hopefully) obtained as live moss harvested from Tasmania under state-issued collection permits, or before permits were required. Sphagnum moss was also harvested from the Brindabella Ranges above Canberra, but stopped many decades ago. It is unlikely any of that moss remains in cultivation.

My experiences with growing Sphagnum Moss

I obtained my live Sphagnum moss either via Bunnings (as Brunnings or Amgrow brands) or via members of the AUSCPS in Sydney who brought direct from a licensed harvesting operation in Tasmania. My first success in growing it was as a substrate for Sarracenia under windowsill cultivation, but I have also grown it well in greenhouses and terrariums with Sarracenia and Nepenthes/Drosera/Pinguicula, respectively.

Sphagnum is most efficiently used as a top dressing in pots of standard CP mixes. To grow it, use live strands that are buried 5 cm or more deep into your CP mix (use of pure Sphagnum must now be considered wasteful) to ensure it stays wet enough to grow. It does not do as well if it is simply placed on the top of peat moss, as it is vulnerable to drying out. Bury each strand so the growing point protrudes from the soil and preferably remains in contact with the soil surface; try using chopsticks or a pair of forceps to do this efficiently. The moss then grows from the exposed end.

Sphagnum does well under the shaded canopy of taller plants like Sarracenia or Nepenthes, especially if humidity is kept high. Full sun is very detrimental to its growth, as are hot, drying winds. Water must be maintained at high levels during summer, as it looses water both via transpiration and also from honeybees that drink moisture directly from the live moss. I always find numerous bees doing this in mid summer; they can learn how to get into greenhouses through even a small gap.

If you want to grow Sphagnum as a top dressing, you should also consider using trays that extend 10 cm or more above the height of the pot used. Solid-bottom broccoli boxes are good in this regard, because they can be cut to custom heights for your setup. Be sure to drill drainage holes at the desired height to allow the tray to drain adequately and not submerge the pots). Once the moss becomes 5-10 cm long (2-3 seasons needed), it can be harvested and used on other pots.

In terraria and climate controlled greenhouses, Sphagnum can grow much faster than under either unregulated greenhouses or outdoor conditions. In terraria, it can quickly become etiolated (stringy) as the newer growth climbs over older growth. However, terraria are a good way to quickly produce a reasonable volume of moss quickly (the etiolated moss soon clumps up if acclimatised to less humid conditions). I use a Cool White 24 or 48 watt compact fluorescent with the highest Kelvin temperature available; the Phillips Tornado series has worked well for me previously. My setup used small lengths of PVC pipe (2 inch lengths) and some acrylic light grating (ask a pet store that specialises in reptiles) to create a platform that I covered with coir basket. I filled the terrarium with water to the platform depth and placed a small aquarium heater underneath to maintain a temperature in the mid 20*C-30*C range. Sphagnum was then placed over the top of the platform to a depth of about 1 inch and allowed to grow. Using this method, I produced enough moss in 6 months to top dress many Sarracenia pots.

If terrarium cultivation is not practical, try growing it in drained broccoli boxes (sterilised with bleach and well washed first!). Use an undrained nursery tray underneath. I'd suggest planting strands of live Sphagnum moss into peat. Grow it in a shaded location that is cool. Make sure you keep the soil very moist to wet. If sun and desiccation is a problem in your conditions, try covering it with a light coloured shade cloth (ca. 70%). The ACT government used this method with good success to rehabilitate Sphagnum heath at Mt Ginnini that was burned after the 2003 bushfires (this heath is a RAMSAR listed wetland and the last major habitat of the northern corroboree frogs).

If you are lucky enough to have a climate controlled greenhouse for Nepenthes that is kept humid via misting, Sphagnum should be no problem to grow, and you should aim to progressively increase the amount you grow and make some available for other growers.

Weblinks

The Australian National Botanic Gardens (ANBG) have a webpage for cultivating Sphagnum moss, which you can view here (although you do not need the stringent conditions that link specifies, as described above). Bluegrass Carnivores also have a good website with some alternative methods for Sphagnum growing, which you can view here. Some of these may or may not be appropriate for our drier climate. But note the 12 cm water table depth that the latter resource recommends.

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Help! Darlingtonia dying!

Darlingtonia_1_blog

For some reason, my 4 year old Darlingtonia has decided to die on me! I have grown this plant without problem since 2009, including through heatwaves exceeding 40*C. I am stumped as to what has happened.

Darlingtonia_2_blog

Here is a close up of a typical example of a dying plant. As you can see, the growing point has died, while the roots and rhizome are still healthy.

Darlingtonia_3_blog

And another example. While most of the affected pieces are mature stolons that were not separated from the original plant, the original plants are also dying in exactly the same manner.

What did I do wrong here? I am convinced it was not hot weather that is to blame, and the fungal growth on these plants has been identified as non-pathogenic by some colleagues who are plant pathologists. I admit it has been three seasons since these plants were divided and that the growth was getting a bit dense. Should I have divided earlier?

Growing conditions were:

  • Live Sphagnum moss media (which was growing beautifully)
  • Watered so Sphagnum  was moist and growing prolifically, using tray method
  • Pot was a foam vegetable crate ca. 15 cm deep x 45 x 30 cm.
  • Grown in part shade year around (although moved to denser shade with our recent move).

I have taken as many healthy looking stolons as possible and have converted them into cuttings, with the hope of keeping at least some plants alive. I have other Darlingtonia alive still, but they are much smaller.

Any advice will be gratefully received! Many thanks!

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Flies!

Selective desat_blog

Its the end of the Australian summer now, and the entomofauna here in Canberra is at its peak! The pitchers are quickly filling up with flies and hosting a range of other insects that aren’t necessarily caught.

BDQyIJ8CEAEoaAu.jpg large

Unlike North America and Europe, our season starts very late (February) and reaches its peak through March and April. This would be like having the field season in Vancouver starting in August and reaching its peak in September-October. In reality, Vancouver reaches its peak around July (midsummer)! This grapevine moth (Phalaenoides glycinae) was not caught by this S. leucophylla x psittacina, but it fed at a few pitchers before it departed. This and similar Agaristine moths are flying around in some numbers now.

Fly_3

A great part of growing Sarracenia outside is the number of insects they catch themselves. At the moment, there are loads of blowflies hanging around the pitcher plants, which means a steady stream of flies falling into the pitchers. Every few seconds you can hear the high pitched buzz of the most recent victims. If there is a breeze blowing the pitchers around, the buzz is almost non-stop!

Fly 5Fly 5a

Interestingly, these blowflies almost seem to be using the trays of pitchers as a lek. I’ve noticed most flies (at least initially) perch on top of a pitcher lid and busy themselves intercepting other flies, presumably in search of a mate.

Fly 6

But it doesn’t take long for the flies to discover the nectar and start feeding. And once they get a taste of Sarracenia nectar, there’s no going back. Note this blowfly’s proboscis is busily probing away at the nectar glands along the edge of this S. flava lid.

Fly_2Fly 7

Being rather cocky creatures, these blowflies flit from pitcher to pitcher, drinking as much nectar as they can find.

Fly_1

Here we see a blowfly cleaning its feet after having a good feed. Insects are actually rather clean creatures, and spend a lot of their time grooming themselves.

Fly_danger

But one thing insects can’t efficiently clean themselves of is the neurotoxin coniine that occurs in the nectar of S. flava. After a few pitcher visits, the flies start to become too cocky, and venture closer and closer to the danger zone – the vertical throat of the pitcher!

Fly_danger_2

This fly is really living very dangerously right now!

Backing outThere was a fly here!

Amazingly, this fly reversed out of the pitcher and fed briefly on the hood of this pitcher. But then, faster than I could catch on camera, the fly lost its foothold and disappeared into the pitcher. There was a fly there a split second before, honest!

Lucilla

A few people have got in touch after my post on fertilising Sarracenia and asked just how necessary it is to fertilise. The answer is it isn’t, especially if your plants are catching insects. Fertiliser is more-or-less cheating: giving your plants extra nutrition to boost their growth. It is rare for Sarracenia not to lure and catch insects outside, especially if you grow lots of plants together.

Pitcher burn 1Pitcher burn

In fact, Sarracenia often catch so many insects that the release of nutrients from the rotting bodies burns the pitcher! This appears as brown or dead patches on the pitcher tube. Pitcher burn is a major reason why Sarracenia have to produce new traps through the year – the old ones fill up too fast and loose their effectiveness.

False rhizome rot

Pitcher rot often causes pitchers to look strange. This S. alata is wilting off at the top, much in the same way it would if the rhizome were dying. In this case, it is just pitcher rot, but it caused me to do a double take when I saw it from a distance!

And to close – how the plants looked as of today:

Collection_1Collection_2

Happy growing!

Thursday, February 7, 2013

Australasian CP Society Sale & Show is on! 2-10 March 2013

AUSCPS_FLYER1AUSCPS_FLYER2

This is the NSW and ACT region’s major carnivorous plant event and the easiest way to get collectable carnivorous plants at very fair prices. Plants are sold by members of the Australasian Carnivorous Plant Society, who collectively have excellent representation of most carnivorous plant varieties.

Regular attendees and the plants they specialise in include:

  • Greg Bourke (Captive Exotics): Nepenthes species & hybrids
  • Peter & Jessica Biddlecombe: Nepenthes, Drosera (D. regia?) &
    Darlingtonia seedlings pre-hardened to Sydney’s climate
  • Gordon & Lyn Hanna: Sarracenia, including the best S. leucophylla money can buy, & Nepenthes
  • Philippe Reytter: magnificent Sarracenia spp. & hybrids (including difficult to get varieties like S. flava atropurpurea), Cephalotus, pygmy Drosera & Dionaea/VFTs
  • Helmut Kibelis: Pinguicula species & hybrids, & Drosera regia
  • Richard Sullivan: magnificent African and Queensland Drosera, jumbo-sized Dionaea/VFTs & occasionally Darlingtonia & Sarracenia

All in all, there are usually some really good plants available, and at very reasonable prices. And as if this wasn’t enough, Stewart Macpherson & Greg Bourke will be showing films of their latest exploits, and Greg will be sharing his experiences in how to grow carnivorous plants of all types.

So come along and support your local CP society, swap stories and growing hints, and pick up some nice plants!

Settling into their new home!

Collection

Happy 2013! We are finally settled into our new house, and the Sarracenia are finally settling in too. True to form, we picked one of the hottest summers ever to move, and the collection had to cope with several days of 40*C heat. Pitchers and live Sphagnum burned at the tips, but everything has adjusted quickly to the new conditions and are looking marvellous.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year in advance from the Pitcher Plantation!

FRT 1-1_tallest pitcher_blog
An 80-something cm (nearly 3 feet) tall pitcher of my favourite plant,
Sarracenia flava var. atropurpurea “FRT 1-1”. This pitcher was produced last season; the plants have not yet forgiven me for repotting and fertilising them this season, and are still sulking! This is the biggest Sarracenia I have ever grown.


We are moving! As of this Friday, we will be packing up the Sarracenia collection. Our new house looks like it will be very amenable to Sarracenia growing, so here’s hoping! As it will take 2-3 weeks for our new internet to be connected (!), there will be no updates to the blog until next year.
In the meantime, we would like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a happy, successful and prosperous 2013. Take care over the silly season and stay safe too.

The Bog Man and His Secret Garden – the story of Rob Sacilotto and why our hobby should become so much more than growing plants for pleasure

 

Rob Sacilotto and some of his many Sarracenia. Photo: © Patricia Lyons, reproduced here with the permission of Garden & Gun Magazine, whom I thank for their generosity.

This story is very inspiring to read: http://gardenandgun.com/article/bog-man-and-his-secret-garden

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Outdoor growing – bring on the colour!

outdoors and loving it

Here is the overflow collection, growing happily in the full sun. These plants were all split late last summer because the parent plants had grown too dense and had started to experience rhizome rot. I had them in the greenhouse to start with, but soon moved them outdoors because they stopped me entering through the door!

Sunday, November 11, 2012

Australasian Carnivorous Plant Society Meeting on 9 November 2012

I managed to get up to Sydney yesterday to attend the Australasian Carnivorous Plant Society meeting, which was a talk by Robert Gibson on his trip to Los Angeles and the ICPS 2012 conference plus field trips. Here are a few photos of the display plants:

Helmut's all red flava_blog

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

The pros and cons of fertilising Sarracenia–and what happens if you overfertilise them

cuprea
You don’t have to fertilise to get lovely Sarracenia! This is a Sarracenia flava var. cuprea ex Gotcha! Plants. Fortunately, it survived the fertiliser carnage described later on this page.

Prologue - If you are an experienced CP grower and read only one article on my blog, it should be this one. I wrote it in response to questions people had asked me about fertiliser use in late 2012. By mid summer, I had lost significant numbers of plants to what I thought was a weird fungal rot. I later learned it was fertiliser burn.

Fertilising Sarracenia is a relatively new thing. It was not usually mentioned in the original texts on CPs (although I think Schwartz in his 1970s book did suggest it from memory), and even today opinions vary widely on how to fertilise and what the benefits are.

Monday, October 15, 2012

Monday, October 1, 2012

Nipping Sarracenia in the bud

Sarracenia flava shooting

A few years back, I tried de-budding Sarracenia after repotting to see whether it made a difference. Although the trial consisted of one plant, it was a lot larger than a duplicate that was allowed to flower by the end of the season. This year, seeing I was not interested in making seed, I set about de-budding every repotted Sarracenia.

(Bad iphone photos of) Nepenthes at the Sydney Botanic Gardens Tropical Centre

The Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney were the location of the International Carnivorous Plant Society Conference way back in 2008. Located in the heart of Sydney, right on the harbour, it provides a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

RSBG_tropical centre

Monday, September 3, 2012

Recent happenings

New_West_Sarracenia

Its been a busy winter here in chilly Canberra – not that you’d know from the blog, which has been silent for some months! Among other things, I’ve had to balance a work trip of three weeks and a complete repotting of the entire Sarracenia collection.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Frosty!

Frosty_1

Welcome to a Canberra winter morning! This was our backyard yesterday morning – the temperature was a fresh –4*C! There was a nice coating of frost over the lawn, and the Sarracenia growing outside.

Saturday, May 5, 2012

A dormant collection…

Dormant greenhouse

Winter arrived a little early this year. Normally, the cold starts in early May, but this year we had two days of frost immediately after Easter, complete with snow in the Tinderry Ranges (30 km south of us) on the night of Easter Monday (9th April) and frost here the following two mornings. The plants normally go dormant before the cold and, true to form, they were down in late March. Here is the greenhouse collection as of yesterday evening, trimmed and ready for the winter. Compare with the collection in full growth earlier this year:

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Sarracenia rhizome issues

S_flava_aborted_flower_1

Sarracenia rhizomes do strange things. This plant, a S. flava var. flava from Gotcha!, buried itself deep into the substrate (although the Sphagnum growing over it probably did not help). This spring, it put up a nice flower… and then nothing. When Sarracenia do this, it means the growing point has failed after the flower for some reason.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Autumn splendour: Sarracenia alabamensis ssp. alabamensis

S_alabamensis_1

While spring is great for Sarracenia flava, they are more or less finished serious pitcher production by mid January. By the time February comes around, they are getting quite floppy and starting to produce phyllodia. It is this time of year I enjoy members of the Sarracenia rubra complex, which do the inverse of Sarracenia flava  - produce floppy, phyllodiform pitchers in spring and summer, followed by nice pitchers in late summer. Growing a mix of spring- and summer-peaking species is great – it gives you a spectacular show year around!

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Revenge of the mealybugs!

A few years ago, I picked up a plant – not sure where exactly – that had mealybugs on it. They have been the bane of my plant growing ever since. Every year, they re-surface on one poor plant or another, appearing without much warning in their hundreds. By this stage, they will already be on plants nearby, and if I’m not quick enough with applying pesticide, they will be on every plant in my greenhouse.

mealy_flava_1

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Breaking My Venus Flytrap Curse…

The patient, ever hungry mouth of a Venus' Flytrap.

Venus’ flytrap (Dionaea muscipula or VFT for short) is without doubt the iconic carnivorous plant and the one most people are familiar with. Unfortunately, most people also have a story that sounds something like “I brought a Venus flytrap, but it died”! I, too, have brought – and killed – lots of VFTs in my life. In fact, it was nearly 19 years ago today that I got my first VFT. It lasted about a year before it died. The next pot of them did not even last that long, neither did the next, or the next. No matter what I did – and I had quite a library of books at my disposal for advice – my VFTs died. I did exactly what the books said – full sun, lots of water in summer, drier in winter, peat moss and sand for soil. Winter temperatures should have been alright, as I grew Sarracenia easily. Nonetheless, they died right next to Sarracenia that were thriving, under the same conditions. I tried them in pots, in terrariums, in bog gardens – they all died equally well.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Monday, January 2, 2012

Nursery reviews # 1, Part 1: Gotcha! Plants, Queensland

Gotcha! plants is, in my opinion, far and away the best supplier of carnivorous plants in Australia – if not the best in the world – because they grow every plant they sell from seed and are continually striving to breed better plants every year. Their range is therefore always increasing and the quality of their species and hybrids is nothing short of spectacular. As if this was not enough, Gotcha! this year acquired the entire holdings of another carnivorous plant nursery – Fly Free Zone – whose owners (David & Felicity Martin) had spent the best part of 30 years breeding and selecting some of the best Sarracenia in cultivation anywhere. Gotcha’s manager, John Creevey, even described David Martin as the “Geoff Mansell of the Sarracenia - an impressive compliment given Gotcha! and Fly Free Zone were competitors at the time. Not that John can talk though – his plants are the Rolls Royce’s of Sarracenia! We’ll see David and Felicity’s plants in part 2.

Gotcha_1

Nursery reviews # 1, Part 2: Gotcha! Plants, Queensland

This half of the Gotcha! Plants review focuses on the collection of the former CP nursery Fly Free Zone.

Fly Free Zone was a CP nursery run by David and Felicity Martin. They went commercial around 1994, but David had been growing Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Dionaea for some 20 years before that. And when I say growing, I mean he started off with different species that he grew from seed (mostly from the late Fred Howell) and started crossing them to produce hybrids. He then selected the best, based on their colour and vigour. These things truly set David’s plants apart – the colours of his hybrids are breathtaking and his plants tend to form nice, compact rhizomes and strongly clumped plants. They are near-perfect in cultivation – their compact growth means you can have a large variety of plants in a relatively small space. I have been growing these plants since they appeared in 1994. Sadly, John & Felicity closed up shop last year and moved north, with the Sarracenia going to Gotcha! Plants. I was fortunate to receive a lot of his S. flava, some of which were started from seed in 1979!

FFZ

The world's largest form of Drosera binata

binata_giant_1

Could this be the biggest form of Drosera binata in existance?

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the Pitcher Plantation

Drosera arcturi, Cradle Mountain N.P.
Well, it may not be a white Christmas here in Australia, but here is an alpine plant in honour of the season. These are Drosera arcturi, photographed at a tarn lake high on the alpine plateau in Cradle Mountain National Park, Tasmania. This tarn lake was a few hundred metres from the slopes of Cradle Mountain itself.
Drosera arcturi, Cradle Mountain N.P.2
These plants are growing in Sphagnum peat between the branches and leaves of a cushion plant (the moss-like plant growing right up to the edge of the tarn lake).